‘Artist in Residence’, Jeju Island 2023
At the beginning of 2023, Rose Heyejung Han from the Seoul Gourmet Organization approached me. I was invited to consider creating an Olfactory ART Tour and contributing to a food festival organized by them on Jeju Island, South Korea. They asked me to develop this idea based on my background as a olfactory artist and scent psychologist. To realize this, I would stay on Jeju Island in October 2023 as an ‘artist in residence’. At the end of the month, a presentation would take place on the island.
After initially feeling overwhelmed by this extraordinary proposal, I said ‘yes’ and immersed myself in the history of this volcanic island. I soon discovered that Jeju Island preserves many unique traditions with core values such as ‘Rock, Wind, and Women.’ The significance of these core values reflects the historical and cultural heritage of the island. These values inspired me to translate them into an olfactory experience, as I always do when composing plant and scent profiles. I consider history, culture, tradition, aromatic compounds, growth patterns, and the location of each plant.
For this project, I focused on an olfactory exploration of Jeju Island, aiming to artistically integrate its biodiversity, cultural heritage, and scents. My time as an artist in residence was primarily dedicated to this research. It resulted in the final concept for the scent art project OASIS, an ‘Olfactory ART Tour’. Oasis—in English OASIS—is an acronym for Olfactory Art Sceneries In Scent: fragrant landscapes experienced from an artistic perspective.
Exploring the Essence of Jeju Island
The core values of Jeju Island—‘Rock, Wind, and Women’—guided the selection of scents for the OASIS project. These specific values are intertwined with the island’s history and culture and formed the thematic structure of the different olfactory experiences in the art project.
Using this as a starting point, I collaborated with the organization to search for scents and locations connected to these aspects. I visited various local inhabitants, listened to and observed their stories, smelled countless scents, examined plants, and visited many special locations. The Seoul Gourmet Organization documented my meetings and the locations on video. At the end of my residency, I gave a final presentation, during which two of my scent artworks were exhibited in a sensory weekend focused on scent and taste.
Core Value 1: Rocks – ‘Protection and Vitality’
The core value "Rocks" is associated with the symbolism of protection; it represents the foundation of the island through its volcanic and fertile nature. Throughout the island, ‘Stone Grandfathers’—dol hareubang—are present: statues of squatting male figures with clenched fists, symbolic protectors of the island, carved from lava stone. The original shamanic traditions are still palpable across the island. It must be said, however, that discussing these traditions with locals is very delicate, as they carry deep cultural pain.
Regarding the aromas of Korean shamanic practices, I thought of the oldest black pine in South Korea, located on Jeju Island. This is one of the so-called ‘Tree Shrines’, where shamanic offerings are still made. We visited and filmed these 600-year-old trees.
To experience the scent of the pine more deeply, Rose Heyejung Han, the SEO of the project, and I conducted a ‘pine meditation’, which we recorded on video.
Traditional fermentation processes have a very specific scent that can be associated with the theme of ‘rocks’ (vitality). Fermented foods have a profoundly positive effect on our microbiome. Food, taste, and olfactory experience are inextricably linked. Fermentation is naturally carried out in specially designed breathable pots. I visited a traditional tunnel kiln where these volcanic clay fermentation pots are made and fired.
At this location, and later during the island tour, female Hanyeo chef Jin Yeo-Won, who practices these fermentation processes based on a long family tradition, allowed me to taste various preparations.
During the presentation, I met South Korean chef OH Se-Deuk, whose special Korean BBQ conveyed a specific olfactory and taste palette of Korea.
Core Value 2: Wind – ‘Dispersion and Biodiversity’
The element "Wind" symbolizes the spread of life in Korean tradition. I chose scents from various flora and apiculture to support the preservation of biodiversity.
I selected the scent of beeswax to connect with this ‘spirit of the wind’. To experience these scents, I visited local beekeeper Kim Daesil, explored his hives, and discussed the current decline in bee populations.
The numerous flowers found on the island are a feast for the eyes. We filmed at special park-like locations designed for their beauty.
Forest bathing, Shinrin-yoku, is not only a Japanese tradition but also popular in South Korea. There is a special “nutmeg forest” where people go to enjoy the scents and walk through the forest for health benefits. We extensively visited, smelled, and filmed the forest, which includes a millennium-old tree.
Core Value 3: Women – ‘Heritage and Resilience’
The third core value, "Women," refers to the remarkable UNESCO heritage of the Haenyeo—the courageous diving women of Jeju Island. These women, often of advanced age, dive into the depths of the sea in search of seaweed and seafood. It is these oceanic scents that surround their unique lifestyle, which I incorporated into the scent project.
I visited a group of Haenyeo divers and learned about Sunbigi, a highly specific aromatic plant associated with the well-being of these women. This is described in detail in my report.
I also met local perfumer Mi Soon Yung. This remarkable, strong woman, with her mini-museum, tea shop, and gallery, developed the Jeju Island perfume “Sunbigi” from this scent.
Personally, I found it particularly special that Jeju Island still maintains a matriarchal culture, one of the few remaining in the world. During this residency, I was also taken to various natural locations: waterfalls, hilly landscapes, mountains, a tea plantation, and the tiny island of UDO, just off Jeju. Visits to various museums provided extensive insights into the island’s history and traditions, including the lingering pain from its turbulent past. I elaborate on this in my report.
‘Olfactory Art Tour’
The ‘Olfactory Art Tour’ consisted of two elements: an island tour and the festival.
Visits to Locations and Meetings with Locals
With a small team—June (film and sound), Katie (production), and Rose Heyejung Han (direction)—locations and meetings with local residents were documented. The footage they captured during this exploration of Jeju Island will be used for the next edition of the festival. In a short montage by me, the ‘making-of’ will soon be available.
The Festival
The tour involved experiencing the OASIS project during a two-day festival featuring cooking by a top Korean chef and two films showcasing underwater dance by French freediver Julie Gautier. I gave a presentation with a lecture including olfactory experiences and exhibited my scent artworks, specially transported for the event. There were also presentations of various teas, the new Sunbigi perfume by Mi Soon Yung, and a Hanyeo picnic with fermented foods prepared by Jin.
Artist in Residence
My ‘artist in residence’ on Jeju Island was an extraordinary experience, both inspiring and disorienting. I have now documented this experience in a detailed report, describing the island’s history, my personal experiences, and my artistic vision. The artistic expression of this experience is currently being developed on paper, with plans for further realization. Research into a suitable location for presenting this work is ongoing.
Acknowledgments
I would like to sincerely thank Rose Heyejung Han of the Seoul Gourmet Organization for her invitation and generous hospitality, covering all travel, accommodation, and additional costs. It was a unique opportunity to connect with people and scents in ways I could not have imagined. Without her preparation and guidance, and the interpreters she arranged, this journey would have been impossible. I also want to thank June for her positive, enthusiastic role as my personal ‘paparazzi’, and Katie for her elegant management, ensuring the trip ran smoothly.
